Franz Josef to Wanaka

Monday, March 11

Early departure out of town past Fox glacier continuing south for a long and curvy yet rewarding drive through the vast valleys and never-ending wilderness of the South Westland World Heritage Park.

Over Haast Pass. Fabulous swamp walk thru ancient, lush native forest with New Zealand's largest and oldest Dinasour trees - more than 800 years old.

Silver eye bird with beautiful voice

 

A quick hike to Roaring Billy waterfall across an expansive nearly dry river bed.

See James in left corner?

Dropping down into the valley with stunning views of first Hawea Lake, then Wanaka Lake. Both are snowfield-runoff freshwater lakes and part of the enormous World Heritage Park. The entire park is natural and undeveloped. Ten percent of New Zealand is in land preservation!

 

Hawea Lake

 

Franz Josef Glacier

Downtown Franz Josef

Franz Josef and Fox glaciers are two of only three temperate-zone glaciers at sea level in the world. Gold miners of the last century settled this area first.

Today's hike took us to the terminus of Franz Josef. First time seeing a glacier for James.

Glacial runoff is a silty gray

The Southern Alps that house these glaciers are a young 2 million years old.

One unique characterist of this west coast region are its one-way bridges that are often shared with the railroad.

 

South Island

March 8 - Turned out to be an exciting drive to Aukland on back roads through miles & miles of farmland with enormous herds of dairy cows.

The car's low gas indicator blinked "red". Sweat circles increased under James' arms and his life-years lessened with each gas-guzzling mile of open land and no sign of gas on the undulating horizon.

The one and only station on our chosen path appeared not a moment too soon. We vow to never depart a NZ town without a full tank of petro from here.

March 9 - South Island

The South Island has 33% more land than the North Island and 75% fewer people.

We're gonna like it here!

 

If you come to ChristChurch (South Island - East Coast) and plan to eventually go to the West Coast, by all means book the 3-hr Kiwi Rail train across the mountains and through numerous tunnels to Greymouth. Fabulous.

Complete with complimentary audio along the entire journey.

A nifty side trip on way south along the coast is to small coastal village of Okarito (no stores or shops). there's a dandy 1.5 hr hike across a tidal march boardwalk then up into a native forest with a high overlook in both directions.

 

Whakarewarewa - Redwood Forest

On to a wonderful redwood grove in Whakarewarewa Forest only 5mins from the center of Rotorua and an easy drive from our secluded cottage in the country. The now 100ft tall redwoods were planted in 1901 to determine if redwoods or pine were the best tree to grow on this island. The pines won and that's what is being logged and replanted everywhere. Fortunately, these stately redwoods are forever protected in this forest.

 

 

 

Back at Blossom's Cottage we enjoy what Jane refers to as "a Judi meal" - plate full of fresh veggies. Yum!

 

TePuia Maori Village

March 7, 2013. North Island, NZ

Visited the Maroi village of Te Paui. Guided through wood carving, weaving and jade jewelry carver workshops where students earn entry for a three year internship before returning to the tribal lands throughout NZ to pass along the traditional skills learned here.

 

 

A tramp along walkways full of visitors to see active thermal geyser and bubbling mud pools.

 

 

I resisted buying mud soap later in the gift shop. Isn't mud soap an oxymoron?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Of course we had to go to a live Maoir demonstration which was quiet fun to watch.

The official comes to determine if visitor is friend or foe.

All the warriors were beautiful to watch. I was fascinated by their artist tattoos.

 

 

 

 

Her skirt is made from palm leaves & she's signing a love song.

 

Hot Springs & Country B&B

March 5-6

Long day of driving up the center of the north island.

This chap was putting petro in his all-original 1937 Chrysler Plymouth pickup with steering column on the right.

Took a boat ferry across this small lake to walk through the Orakei Korako Thermal Park owned and operated by the Maori.

Judi & Jane hamming it up.

 

Judi & Jane hamming it up.

Little geyser acting up.

 

Did a look/see around Lake Taupo, the largest lake in NZ (it's the size of Saigon).

Continued north to Rotoua to our sweet B&B in the country where our neighbors only moo, brey or cluck. The chickens like to let us know our breakfast eggs are ready for pickup.

 

 

 

We like it here so well we're going nowhere else today. I even get to hang out our laundry!

 

 

 

 

New Zealand - First 3 days

2 March 2013

Business class from Jakarta to Sydney, Australia was anything but expected. Seats didn't recline fully. Although they had a clever "mattress" that slipped over chair back and covered seat for a slight bit of extra comfort and warmth. 

Baby wailing through the night in first row behind Business class privacy window made sleeping during the 7-hr night flight next to impossible. I'm so ready for some fresh air & open country.

March 2-3

Off the plane at 7:30am, pick up rental car, find way out of Wellington, then on to the Golden Shears championships in Masterton, NZ. Luck was on our side as Jim Wood walked into the auditorium 5mins after we found our seats center stage. He as surprised as we to find each other so easily.

Competition grew to a crescendo as finalists from week-long shearing competitions vied for world champion status. Women, many Maori, collect the sheared wool for sorting and baling as the male shearers clipped each of a dozen sheep in mere minutes.

Final competition was between master wool sorters. One woman, Joanne, with 4th stage leukemia, forewent kimo treatments in order to compete. Amazing stamina. Her male cousin beat her efforts by mere seconds. He & several awarded shearers donated their winnings to the Leukemia Foundation in her honor.

Castlepoint Station is owned by Emily (2nd on left) & Anders Crofoot (standing) - Jim & Twink Wood's (seated at far end) daughter & son-in-law. Their station consists of 9000 hectares of land, 20,000 ewes (40,000 sheep when the ewes give birth) and over 1,000 head of cattle. Their daughter Sarah (far left) just graduated college with a dual degree in agri/business.

Castlepoint, named by Captain Cook, served as a primary port until 1880 when a railway linked Wellington to Masterton. The Castlepoint lighthouse, built in 1913, is one of the tallest in the country (22.6 meters high & 51.8 meters above sea level), is visible over 30km out to sea and valued by ships, especially those coming from Panama, who have no other identifiable feature upon which to fix their sights.

March 4

Drove up the west coast for an overnight in Napier, dubbed the Art Deco town. Each year they host a week-long Art Deco festival where everyone dresses in period clothing and the streets are filled with period automobiles.

A tasty dinner of fish & chips and steamed veggies at The Emporium restaurant est 1937. We're looking forward to a hot shower after a long day of sand, sun and lots of wind.