Not thrilled to have nervous Jack wake me with his toenails clicking on the hardwood floor at 5:30a as he whimpered his "good morning are you up there in that tall bed" whine to make sure I hadn't disappeared in the middle of the night. Jack understands something's about to happen in his family cause everyone has a suitcase out and they've been zipping and unzipping them for days as they try to figure out what to take and what to leave behind.
I've unpacked & repacked 3 times over as many days. Rick Steve's says if you aren't going to use it at least 3 times, leave it home. Still difficult to know when you're traveling with one carry-on for one month and experiencing three seasons - winter in the US, hot/humid summer in Indonesia, and fall in New Zealand. Jane & James busy working all day to complete work imposed deadlines and check off procrastinated to-dos.
Plenty of check-in time after housesitter, Margaret, & Jack drop us at RDU airport. Helpful American crew printed out boarding passes for entire NC->JFK->Hong Kong->Jakarta journey. Hence, we decided to check rather than drag our bags and hope they will land when and where we do.
After a 1.5hr delay sitting on runway waiting for clearance into JFK, we were on our way. On one of the smallest jets I've ever flown -- 2 +1 seating. Flight attendant hip-swipes each aisle seat every time she passes through...she's a healthy lass.
In JFK, happy to not be dragging our bags on the long trek, including catching the Airtrain, to get to Cathay Pacific's terminal and our next departure gate. Knowing we would be soaring with Cathay Pacific for 15 hours and logging over 8000 air miles before landing in Hong Kong to change planes and continue to Jakarta, we were looking forward to a good night's sleep in a fully horizontal position.
What a contrast from our first flight! First to board. Each had our our double-sized overhead bin (large enough to hold two big bags - and we had only 1 backpack each). Our cubicles were complete with moveable 17" TV screens, a console housing a remote control for audio or video pleasures, plugin ports for iPod, iPad, AV input, or 3-prong electrical needs. The reclining chair console showed an upright (chair) position and a (moon) for night time flat out sleeping. A full duvet for each of us to use when the comfortably large chair reclined into a long, flat bed by sliding forward.
We were airborn before we could discover it all. Noise-reduction ear phones hung in individual cupboards with vanity mirror next to our non-aisle shoulder. A shoe storage cavity was under the full-sized flip out&open meal/iPad/book reading tray. Another hidden storage gem was located on the aisle side of the seat under the collapsible arm rest.
While making our "beds" the flight attendants began their flights up and down the aisles. A bottle of water. A small zippered travelers bag with an eye mask, earplugs, tooth brush & paste, and warm socks. Then came beverages served in real glasses. Next a small porcelain dish of warm roasted almonds. A dinner menu with full-course dining or a lighter meal - my choice - of smoked salmon on a bed of greens, olives, lemon slice and special dressing, a cup of delicious red lentil soup, and a smashing good raspberry choc mousse-type dessert. A choice of four different warm rolls, beverages ranging from cocktails or wine to milk, coffee, tea, fruit juices or sodas. The silverware, including knives, was stainless & full size. The dishes and glassware all had to be washed, not recycled! A hot towel was offered after another dessert tray rolled down the aisles.
It's now 3:30am Wed morning. Time to call it a day.
7:30am
Nature calls. There's never a wait for the bathroom. How can that be? Attendants happy to supply extra bottles of water for the severely dehydrated. Chug-a-lug. Back to sleep.
10:30am
Rise and shine. Chug-a-lug. Hot water for personal stash of cafe (my luggage will be much lighter by the end of this trip).
11am
People stirring. Life's like a box of chocolates (according to Forrest Gump) and a box full of delicious beauties was offered for a "good morning" greeting! Chocolates for any and every occasion. Now there's an idea.
Yahoo! Jane discovered that our multifunction seat/beds have even more adjustment possibilities. Life in the air couldn't get any better than this.
Chug-a-lug and some soothing classical music on stereo headphones while I catch up with Jack Reacher in his "Persuader" pursuits.
No matter how many times I go to the bathroom - which in my case is many as is the number of bottles of water I'm consuming - each time the leading edge of both toilet tissue rolls has been neatly refolded into a perfect triangle. Astonishing. I wonder who drew the short straw for that ridiculous duty?
2:38a Hong Kong time - not really sure what day it is
Interior lights are on, all the attendants are bustling about spreading fresh white linen table cloths on food tray and offering guests an assortment of beverages. I'm relishing fresh-squeezed OJ in dainty glass while Jane savors a strawberry smoothly and watches a movie.
Thurs 21st 5:50pm
We've landed (finally) after two long days aloft in the atmosphere over the North Pole with a stop in Hong Kong.
After another 6hr flight were thankful to be met by Child Fund representative in Jakarta Intl airport who quickly and efficiently whisked us through baggage collection (yeah, all 3 bags arrived same time we did), customs and security before pointing us to next departure gate for final flight to Jogjakarta. Only downside to trip so far is Jane left her extra-special around-the-world Australian jacket in the airpor waiting areat. Big bummer.
Another Child Fund rep had a welcome sign held above her head for us to see when emerged 1hr later in Jogjakarta airport.
Praise to Budda cause Jogjakarta is crammed with 1/2 million maniacs on motorbikes. Crossing any street is a sure form of suicide! And driving on the wrong side of the road in such congested traffic is this American's worst nightmare.
We're congratulating ourselves for having made it this far w/o having a major meltdown somewhere along the line. Wouldn't have been possible had we even one more leg to complete this journey. We're all brain dead and sleep deprived. Very thankful to be securely tucked inside the thick walls of the Phoenix Hotel built in 1918 with a lovely balcony overlooking a beautiful courtyard/pool, secluding us from the streets of chaos just outside the main doors.
Any form of bedding is going to feel wonderful this night. 9pm Lights out.
Friday, 22nd 6am
Oh what a difference a good nights sleep can make. Inner ears continue to gently sway my equilibrium due to the long airborne travel. Feeling off center. James too. We both get car & seasick easily. Jane stays blissfully happy and unaffected thru and thru. Wish I had her iron stomach and steel constitution. All agreed canceling scheduled temple tour was a good idea. Lounged around room after yummy breakfast of traditional foods and juices. Read. J/J napped. Jane got facial & neck massage. Enormous dinner buffet with traditional, American, Mexican entrées and an entire room devoted to appetizers and desserts. My two tiny plates equalled 1/50th of the offerings. Stomach still on the queazy side.
Saturday, 23th. 3:00a
Sleep is illusive for me this morning. Shower. Cafe. Finished Jack Reacher novel "Persuader" by flashlight so as not to bother J/J with ceiling lights.
We're off to see ancient temple of Borobudur today. Meeting guide at 8a. Good thing. Jogjakarta is crammed with 1/2 million maniacs on motorbikes. Crossing any street here is a sure form of suicide!
Arduous drive on crowded roads with no road rage but a total sense of chaos. Tour guide Hari and driver up front. 3 of us in middle - James & I refusing to ride in back 3rd row seat in minivan. 1.5hr drive to temple. Carsick inducing for James. Enroute saw remnants of volcanic eruption in 2010 of Mount Merapi. River beds now clogged w ash and lava. 300 people killed. Those who lost homes now rebuilding in same locations.
Arrival at Borobudur Temple. Deluged by entrepreneurs....everyone has hands so everyone uses them. There is no begging. All expect you to barter the price. Even if they only make a few coins profit each day it's better than not trying. The average person makes less than $2/day. 100 million of the 240 million living on the island have no electricity.
They're kind people who like to smile and take pictures with foreigners.
This is the largest Buddhist temple in the world built in the 800AD. It took 50 yrs to build and it has 504 Budda statues. Three levels at top circle the primary dome. Each level representing one of the gradual accents from Earthly (people still worried about material things) to Higher Understanding, and finally reaching Nirvana at the top.
Temple has been completely restored to prevent draining waters from ruining stones.
There's a Budda inside each dome. If you can reach inside and touch one as you walk the circles of transition clockwise, you will have good life.
Rice paddies are predominant during the rainy season (now til end of May). During dry season the fields grow vegetables. Visited small temple on way back to hotel that had three large Buddhas. Succumbed to purchasing too small hand-painted blouse and carved cattle-bone salad spoons. Invited into private home (guide's friends) to share tea with grandmother. Husband returned with fresh fruit - leechee. Daughter and granddaughter in live in extension of home.
Traditional greeting in Jakarta is "selamat" meaning peace. Thank you is "trerimecasi" (tear-y-me-cas-y).
Sunday, 24th
Early 7am start walking and defying death crossing the streets on our way to the Presidential Palace. Maliboro Road is the main shopping road. Many vendor stalls still draped with tarps while merchants ate breakfast at warungs. Jane made friends with family from East Java who were also vacationing in Jogia who wanted to take photos of us with their family. Fun.
Rubio introduced himself as we walked to a busy corner and contemplated how to cross the street and find the Bird Market without getting run over in the process. He was a fabulous salesman for getting us to hire him and his bekah (tri-wheeled bike with bench for passengers. He spoke understandable English, explained where we were, what we should see, showed us how to get there on a map, and only then did he suggest we ride there in his bekah. So glad we did. It was a long way to the palace on roads jammed with cars, buses, motorbikes, horse-drawn carriages and bekahs. Total insanity.
Rubio was a wonderful guide. He's been pedaling folks around for 34 years; he's now 72yrs young and fit as a fiddle. First stop was the bird market where birds of all discription are sold. Song birds are sold for their songs, not their colors, because they have bird singing competitions. Flying foxes (very large black bats) are for sale too. As is a mongoose, snakes, mice to feed the snakes, or long-legged cocks for fighting. The fish market appeared subdued in comparison. Only a few vendors selling fish for aquariums, none for consumption. The flower market was similarly quiet.
A stop at a batik co-op for artists (Jane bought a small one for her travel wall back home). Final side trip stop was to a 3rd-generation puppet maker. Judi bought a Tree of Life decoration made from water buffalo hide, hand chiseled, then hand-painted with a brush made of a single strand of cat hair. The entire process takes three weeks.
Presidential Palace was packed with school children. A group of girls from an all girl school had an assignment to practice English with foreign visitors they met. Each of the four teenage girls who surrounded Jane, much to her delight, were from different nearby islands like Boreno and New Guinea. We spent a few minutes watching the traditional dance performance before heading back to hotel.
We found Rubio and he, like many others here, is generous. He suggested we hire a friend of his instead since he'd not gotten hired yet today and Rubio had. We bartered the cost. The hotel told us is should cost between 15-25,000R. The locals told Rubio that it was uphill from President Palace back to Phoenix Hotel so would be 40,000R. We agreed to pay 50,000 for two bekahs so off we went, waving farewell to Rubio. Well, it was definitely uphill much of the way and the peddlers had to get off and push us many inclines. We felt they'd certainly earned the 50,000 we gave each at the end of our ride when we asked to be let out on Maliboro Rd for some spontaneous shopping.
That idea proved to be the straw that broke our sweaty, tired souls. We quickly retreated from the masses to find our way to the Circle K for extra water bottles and a few snacks to tide us over until our organized Child Fund Intl briefing meeting @ 6p. That will be followed with dinner and a dance performance. Jane and James are sound asleep now in preparation for a longer night than we usually undertake.
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